Chanel closed her Rue Cambon shop during the Second World War, only opening it again in 1954.It was after this that the pieces began to be signed, and in reference books such pieces are usually dated 1954-1971 (from the date of the first known signature to Chanel's death in 1971).A signature plaque was added that featured 'CHANEL' bracketed by the copyright and registration marks.For the first time the CC logo was added, together with 'MADE IN FRANCE.' 1981 - 1985 Until this point, no dates had been used on the signature plaques, but in 1981 the date began to be added as a four digit number on the bottom of the plaque.The signature at this time was simple, 'CHANEL' was stamped either directly onto the piece, or was attached via a hangtag, as shown above.There was one small variation, for the Haute Couture pieces, and therefore those of the highest standard, three stars were also included immediately below the 'CHANEL.' It was also during this period that Chanel's collaboration with Robert Goosens began.
‘©CHANEL® CC MADE IN FRANCE’ was either stamped onto a round plate or directly onto the jewelry in a round pattern.If you know Chanel well it is easier to spot a fake - the weight must feel substantial, the workmanship is of the highest class, and the signature must be authentic (see below).If you pick up a piece of Chanel vintage jewellery it must not feel light or tinny, I was once shown a supposed Chanel necklace that seemed to have all the correct markings but it felt very light and when the charms knocked together it sounded like a cheap wind chime!He appointed Victoire de Castallane to head up jewellery design, and she produced of the famous Chanel pieces that are so collectable and continue to inspire today.She was employed from 1984 until 1998, an amazing creative period.
As well as designating the Season, the year was added and denoted by the final two digits. The copyright and registration marks return around the 'CHANEL,' as well as 'MADE IN FRANCE' along the bottom.